Although I really like Jodhpur, it was raising issues that I cant quite get my head round.
Evening meals spent on beautiful rooftops were accompanied by incessant loudspeaker scripture readings and chanting transmitted across the city. This continued hourly throughout the night until dawn. Every night. Without the loudspeaker, this could be a melodic, enchanting sound. But loudspeaker, Really ? Throughout the night? Noise is not considered an imposition, despite a noise abatement order preventing loudspeakers after 10.00pm.
Our visit to the great Fort didn’t go undisturbed. About half way round, we were told we had to separate - women and children took the parapet route and men took the bottom route. After quite a trek which ended in the temple, I was completely lost. I informed the guards this was wholly unacceptable to separate people without warning and they needed to get me back to the entrance. Finally, when I managed to retrace my steps, John was nowhere to be seen.
Eventually, having been shown a picture of the ‘missing person’, a widespread search for John was underway by the guards. When found, a bemused John had a police escort through the fort, into the Maharaja’s private lift and down to the entrance.
We were finally reunited, much to the delight of the crowd and all the guards involved who were very pleased with their work in solving the case.
My walk along the parapet.
The Blue City district of Jodhpur is another maze of hidden lanes nestled into the hill below the mighty fort. They were easy to drift through, cool and safe from traffic. Providing momentary glimpses into people’s lives and incredible views across the city. There are many theories why the buildings are blue - to keep them cool, to deter termites, to indicate a higher caste (the priestly higher Brahmins) and it’s the colour related to Lord Shiva. Whatever is the reason the blue against the terracotta pink and pistachio doors is a palette worth savouring.
But, it was the evenings here that became my favourite place - the lowlight created an edginess and mysterious feel to the city, but beautiful all the same. This was the side of Jodhpur we will remember. For me, this evening was one of the most exciting and mesmerising of them all, the atmosphere was like nothing I have ever experienced.