Hello Luang Prabang… I’ve just landed in the most deliciously, beautiful place in the world…
Luang Prabang was the royal capital of Laos until the mid 70s. It is a tiny town, lost in time, filled with temples, french colonialism architecture, shopping, cafes and monks.
Room with a view -Luang Prabang
Crawling out of bed on 2 consecutive mornings at 5.00 AM was an absolute necessity. The first morning, in what can only be described as a biblical down-pouring, we cycled into the town on rickety old bikes. I wish I had mastered the art of cycling and umbrella holding but my bike didn’t have working brakes so it wasn’t a risk worth taking.
The reason for the early rise was to witness the Daily Laotian practise of Tak Bat.
Baan Bat Alms Bowl
The ancient practice of Tak Bat dates back at least 600 years and has become the fabric of Lao culture. This daily alms giving ritual of Buddhism sees the townsfolk rise before dawn to cook batches of sticky rice, the daily bread for the town’s monks, ready for the silent reverential donation on the streets of Luang Prabang. Wearing traditional clothes the townsfolk engage tirelessly in the age old practice believing it will bring them spiritual merit for the afterlife.
Much to John’s delight ;) I insisted on returning the following morning to see what difference a change in weather would bring to the occasion. The difference was - hundreds of fair-weathered tourists wishing to take part in the morning ritual also turned up on the main high street. Deposited out of mini vans they are either pre-paid groups or individuals wishing to take part or just observe. Most tourists buy sticky rice at the stands set up along the procession route, which is apparently of lesser quality than the kind cooked by locals.
Several vendors stand among the worshippers, selling biscuits or small rice bowls to tourists keen on participating in the almsgiving. Once you run out they will give you more rice and with each bowl comes a hefty price at the end. Conveniently, the cashpoints are within striking distance. Unfortunately, a blind eye is turned on these Laotian street vendors making an excessive profit from the ritual.
Tourists wearing traditional Laotian clothes.
Tourist group being informed of Tak Bat guidance.
Rain kept many people away.
A drier morning brings many more tourists.
Our homestay hosts gave us all the inside info we needed to escape the tourists and the rice touts and experience what I can only describe as one of the most enchanting and mesmerising experiences I have ever witnessed, no matter the weather.
At 5:30 AM, the sound of a gong echoes in the distance and dawn starts to break. Shortly afterwards, the first monks appear In the silent backstreets of Luang Prabang. I could just make out the rhythmical padding of feet. Gravel crunching beneath the bare soles. Over 200 Bhuddist monks form a solemn processional line.
There’s an occasional yawn that can’t be stifled, not surprising, they have been praying since 3.00AM.
The street lights are harsh in the 5.30 morning darkness, the saffron cloth begin to glows as the day breaks, the rain ceases for brief periods. Umbrellas punctuate the line as the barefoot monks step quickly along the wet streets - who can blame them this is not the weather to be out in.
The rice is gratefully received from shop owners, locals and few groups of buddhist tourists safely shielded under gazebos ready to pay their respects. Strategically placed signs display basic guidelines so tourists can be careful not to disturb this daily religious practice.
On my second visit there is a much lighter atmosphere with an occasional smile and even a whispered conversation from a young monk wishing to show off his english to me. Vacuum packed biscuits and sweets donated from tourists are often discarded out of the Alms Bowls as they sully their rice.
There appeared to be even more monks this second time. A line of orange, red and saffron waiting patiently to move on as each group walk a silent route from their Wat and around the streets. Each group is led by a temple elder and often a temple dog. There are about 30 wats in Luang Prabang with about 1600 monks in residence.
At the end of the ritual, around 6.30, the monks return to their respective temples, their Baan Bat bowls loaded with steamed, pure sticky rice. This food is shared between the monks as part of their common meals. They eat twice a day – breakfast and lunch. They are forbidden to eat after midday.
After breakfast it’s time for temple chores and perhaps a bit of dog training before retreating from the midday heat.
Lion is the latest member to the temple.
Children from underprivileged families rely on the Buddhist tradition of temples taking in boys from rural villages and offering them education and housing…their only ticket out of poverty. The youngest novice is about 7 years old. Girls in Laos are not granted the same opportunity.
Becoming a novice or a monk is well regarded in Lao society. Men get a higher status after having spent a period of their lives in the temple. It is thought that about 40% of the males in Laos have been a monk for a period of time. Some join for just a brief period of their lives to learn the art of meditation. Our host where we were staying joined for 9 years and got an education in Thailand. He got sent sent back to Luang Prabang to become a teacher. The wages then were 20 dollars a month. Now a monk teacher earns about 1500 dollars a month. Education for everyone else appears pretty limited here .