Hello Mokpo!
The sprawling port city of Mokpo is set on a small peninsula jutting out into the West Sea, it is the end of the line for trains and expressway traffic and where you can start your island hopping.
Our Hotel - Hyundai is perched on the top of a hill next to the Hyundai shipbuilding yard. It is a complete throwback to the 1970s and probably built for the business executives. Hyundai is one of four families that run half the Korean economy.
We are renting a car for a few days so that we can reach the islands and areas where public transport doesn’t go.
The english version of sat nav made driving here super easy, although the recent change of rules in the highway code took some learning. The locals seem to have their own set of rules - drive as fast as you can and jump as many lights in whichever way you can.
Situated in South Jeolla province, Suncheon Bay Wetlands Reserve was our first pit stop.
Upon our arrival, we were a bit shocked to see the cartoon figures and photo zones greet us and decided to avoid the visitors area. We went round the back and walked the Earthing Path - barefoot along a footpath to promote inner calm and a good night’s sleep. It was a lovely sensation. Let’s see how I sleep tonight!
Since we wanted to see the wetlands and not the photo zone experience we went off piste and decided to choose a different mode of transport in order to see as much as possible.
The Suncheon wetlands are stunning, my geographical knowledge is poor, but what I see are vast, flat, empty spaces filled with a diverse ecosystem, with layered mountains forming screens in the distance. The wetlands are tidal and at the time of our visit it was a very low tide. Beautifully empty, beautifully still and beautifully mesmerising.
Look a little closer and there are mudskippers emerging out of the sludge as well as fiddler crabs digging their way out of the mud with their giant one handed claw.
Our path took us between the coastal wetland where we saw a river mouth, reed fields, mudflats and islands, then on the other side were rice paddies, salt farms, fish farms and rolling hills and mountains. A really diverse area and home to all sorts of birds and wildlife.
By Autumn, the reed fields in Suncheon Bay are thickly covered with reeds taller than a full-grown man. It is the biggest colony of reeds in Korea. For us, in May, it is an expanse of new fresh greenery swaying in the wind like waves on the sea. It must be incredible when the silver reeds reach full height.
We drove 30miles further south into the hills to stay a traditional night in a 200 year old hanok in Boseong. Tucked away in the back of beyond this was going to be interesting…
On the outside, hanoks have some pretty amazing architecture. They are primarily made from wood and earth, with an iconic tiled roof. Jinrae Lee’s home was something special. We entered through the main gate quarters through two courtyards to the inner living area, where our hanok was.
We were staying in the old family shrine which was bigger than average.
After taking off our shoes, we opened the paper clad doors and were greeted with a tiny room with elaborate low-level units and a large TV. Next door we also had a large tea room should we decide to have a tea ceremony along with our breakfast. Our bathroom was in a separate hanok, through some hefty wooden doors.
We have to get used to the multiple shoes given to us, you need outdoor, indoor and bathroom pairs.
We are too tall to lie this way.
We fit just fine this way. Good job we are not interested in watching TV.
Despite the age of the buildings the hanoks are equipped with a few modern amenities. Each hanok had heated floors, known as ondol - whereby the air is heated under the floor and passed under the building, a common feature in many Korean homes.
Underfloor heating system.
Family Shrine ceiling.
This was a must do experience but I have to say it was very uncomfortable. I really enjoyed our overnight stay at Jinrae Lee’s home, I also have to say that I left very sore and ready for a more conventional bed once again.
The beds at Hanoks are nothing more than a thin mat that can be rolled up when not in use. They are neither designed for ergonomics or comfort and to make matters worse the pillows are filled with what felt like rice, like a bean bag and not much bigger.
While we could get over sleeping more or less on the floor, the heated flooring was super nice, we tossed and turned most of the night and I found my ribs and hips were very sore in the morning. So much for Earthing walk!!
Room with a view. Boseong.
We have a 3 night stay in another hanok to look forward to, I might have to purchase some pillows…