During a recent post-lockdown visit to Istanbul there was one district located on the fringes of the city centre that I instantly fell in love with. The residential area of Balat and Fener, situated in the Faith district.
While the neighbourhood was historically considered the Jewish Quarter, it’s now a mosaic of Jewish, Christian, Orthodox, and Muslim communities. A large proportion of the Jewish community left after the birth of Israel and most of the Greek families fled after the Cyprus dispute. From 2003 a renovation programme began and at the base of the neighbourhood you find a developing young vibe and a flourishing string of cafes, antique shops and artisan workshops. This however, is one of the few places where the residents still outnumber the tourists along The Golden Horn.
If you climb the steep network of cobblestone streets behind the vibrant wooden facades that show signs of much needed renovation, the visitors disappear and a different scene altogether awaits you. Vignettes of the old Jewish and Armenian homes, coupled with a quieter, slower pace of life in contrast to other bustling districts of Istanbul.
The streets are filled with children playing, locals drinking tea and laundry hanging from house to house intermingled with Turkish flags, many paying homage to Ataturk.
Look a little closer and you find an abundance of chairs on the streets waiting to be occupied by the locals, as well as a large quantity of stray cats who have taken up residency enjoying the plentiful food, peace and the availability of comfy seats.
Many faded painted homes have been tagged, many with declarations of love. The sunlight casts a golden glow, but the narrow streets are cool and sit in heavy shade. Perfect for sitting and watching the world go by.
At one point, we were spotted sitting on the curb eating fruit and it wasn’t long before we were given chairs and served tea by the gentlemen of a football club - a meeting house where they would regularly gather to watch a game on the TV.
We were welcomed by such a beautiful and culturally diverse community, what is there not to love?
