Bhaktapur is a small Newar town in the Kathmandu Valley where the past meets the present. It is known as the cultural capital of Nepal, and its streets and squares are teeming with vendors selling and creating the most intricately designed woodwork, pottery and bronze singing bowls. It is also the setting for Bertolucci’s acclaimed film The Little Buddha. This heritage town attracts not only tourists but wedded couples having their official photographs taken against the beautiful backdrops.
Although temples and castles are generally not our thing, this town is remarkable in its sheer scale and beauty. This is a UNESCO heritage site. The temples have been rebuilt since the 2015 earthquake - funded by UNESCO.
Following the 2015 earthquake the surrounding old town has been rebuilt by the residents without any financial aid.
Earthquake debris lies in mounds throughout the city.
Bhaktapur is famous for the rows of grey clay pots that bask in the sun to dry.
There are two pottery squares in Bhaktapur, with a communal kiln for the potters to fire their work.
Anyone who knows me even a little bit knows my affinity for paper. Nepalese Lokta paper frequently features in my art work so it comes as no surprise that I tracked down a paper-making factory ‘coincidently’ hidden away in the back streets of Bhaktapur.
The Peacock Shop, named after the nearby Peacock Window symbolising good luck and prosperity, is a monument to the work of Mr. Prajapati who is saving much of the Newar Heritage and rebuilding earthquake damaged buildings. His premises comprises of the paper-making factory, printing and book creations and also on the top floor is the owner's collection of carvings and furniture, some of it many years old which he has saved from being lost or destroyed.
Mr. Prajapati, the owner of The Peacock Shop
Mr. Prajapati’s son, Suyog has published a handmade book describing culture and Hindu-Buddist imagery. It has been handprinted in 6 languages. It was beautiful to see the actual old letter-press machine, the layout of the pages and the plates used to print the book.
‘Glimpses of Nepal’ Book cover plate.
The Lokta grows wild at an altitude of 6500ft or above in the Himalayas.
The Lokta bark is cooked, washed and beaten into pulp before it is dyed and then spread out on the mesh frames to dry out in the sun. Some papers have flowers and leaves added.
Making the bark pulp
Dying the pulp red
Dyed lokta pulp on the mesh with petals added
Various stages of drying paper on the rooftop
The paper is then pressed to the desired thickness and texture and cut to the required size.
Giant paper guillotine
Making covers for Lokta books
Mr Prajapati has also designed a house for a potter. It is made entirely of terracotta and glows a beautiful orange in the sunlight.
Mr. Prajapati’s kiln
House made of terracotta
The Dharka Topi - a hat worn by Nepalese men is part of their national identity.
As the sun begins to fade we leave a glowing Bhaktaphur. We throughly enjoyed our visit to this artists hub and my bundle of Lokta paper will be carefully packed and taken home, eventually.