Nagasaki was the only major port open to foreign trade during Japan's era of isolation, and the Chinese and Dutch were the only traders allowed in the city. Today, evidence of both these countries can be seen in various quarters of the city and in the food. In more recent history, Nagasaki became the second city after Hiroshima to be destroyed by an atomic bomb towards the end of World War Two.
We arrived late at night in the pouring rain, of course.
For us, travelling all the way over to Nagasaki was about seeing a variation of character and culture, Gunkanjima Island and Sumo Wrestling. Nagasaki isn’t just about the atomic bomb devastation, but it is a big part. My goodness though, once you’ve walked round the no-holds barred museum and seen the utter horror of it all, it is quite unbelievable how an area can come back from that.
Nagasaki feels different, a bit more chilled and very, very steep. The cars are not quite as pristine and the taxis still sport the white lace covers but the drivers don’t always wear white gloves.
The streets are less sanitised and there is a mixture of old and new and higgledy-piggledy disorder as you leave the centre.
Moving house looks hardwork.
The streetcars add a nostalgic charm, they are great for flitting round the city and we loved them.
Gunkanjima - Battleship Island was our initial reason to go to Nagasaki and we were devastated to discover that there were no boats landing there for the foreseeable future due to recent typhoon damage. Absolutely gutted, another one to add to the list of ‘Unseens’.
Instead, we hired a car and went over to the ‘hidden potteries’. Well, they’re not that well hidden - it was like Hebden Bridge mid-summer. What we did find in the most beautiful village of Okawachiyama is the studios and kilns are all closed and turned into tourist shops, all selling traditional Japanese porcelain with no contemporary pieces. We enjoyed the mountainous backdrop and the beautiful setting.
We then drove to Arita, the home of porcelain. We saw the outlet stalls lining the roadside and decided to keep driving.
Most independent businesses appear to have very infrequent, random opening times. Maybe the big shopping malls have taken their business away?
The most peculiar thing is that here in Nagasaki, everywhere closes at 8.00pm. With the exception of a convenience store, a Pachinko Parlour or an occasional fast food restaurant. If there are late night bars and clubs hidden away you certainly don’t see them or hear them.
Pachinko customer.
So where is everybody?