tourism

'I'm going to saddle a lampoon'. - Google Translate - Restaurant Menu. Hiroshima.

Good afternoon Hiroshima.

It comes as no surprise that Hiroshima looks and feels quite similar to Nagasaki, possibly a little more alternative and arty, full of businesses and quite lively..

The designer high-end shops sit alongside market stalls and cheap drugstores.

The city is very layered, some buildings could have as many as 8 floors with different businesses.

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Park are both outstanding. It is monumental in all aspects - the space, presentation and content. You can’t fail to be moved by this place. A fitting memorial to the first bomb, again with many human tales of destruction and suffering beyond imagination, the town totally wasted. The drawings created by survivors had more meaning than any picture or story for us. They have little origami cranes they make to remember the dead and place them at temples and memorials, they look very beautiful. It was started by a girl who survived for about 20 years before dying from Leukaemia. The stories and images are brutal, more so than Nagasaki, due to the sheer quantity. Hundreds of school children are taken through, it is a necessary part of their curriculum. 

Hiroshima, like Nagasaki, have kept their streetcar system and it looks like the flagstones that the rails are set in could be originals. It makes me think how little attention to detail we give our street furniture in England. Money is used here to make the environment better for everyone. Maybe also, the fact that they don’t bury their cables means they don’t disturb the pavements and roads as much as we do. 

There is no litter, everyone takes their rubbish home with them. Eating whilst walking along or standing around on the street is frowned upon. However, it is acceptable to drink while standing aside a vending machine.

Out of view having a sneaky coffee and sandwich.

The lack of birds took an unexpected turn whilst here. The constant electronic notification noises that we are surrounded by have now incorporated the sound of a Cuckoo at road crossings, while digital birdsong plays gently in the background of public places.

Dogs are more frequent, but are carried or wheeled about in pushchairs. Is that the worry of messing up the streets? 

Hiroshima is a series of beautiful islands which is pretty cool, so using a train and a ferry included on our JR pass made it easy to visit the island of Miyajima to see the great floating Torii Gate. 

We checked the tide times in order to see them at their best, only to find the following:

‘During the renovation works, the torii gate is covered under a partially transparent scaffolding.’

Not totally accurate. 

The great gate and holy shrine puts Pushkar to shame. This is the real way to make money from religion. A colonnade of tourism shops selling novelty cakes, fast food and cutesy plastic toys. 

I got told off for taking this photograph of the Torii Gate.

After all the shopping you get mugged by the deer. They will rip open your souvenir bag to get the novelty cakes or fast food and hassle you relentlessly. They even eat the maps which is probably all they were good for.

The deer are very funny and adorable and did make the trip worthwhile, although the victims probably have a different perspective.

Clutching souvenir bags, having just been mugged by the deer.

You just cant be annoyed with them.

Hiroshima is a nice place. We liked the city and for Japan, a lively feel in the evenings. The bars have people in them and the shops though expensive are interesting to look at. It’s amazing how its been resurrected from its history.

Fried ones life, deep fried scissors - Dinner menu - Google translate.

Good morning Kyoto, Jonny Monsoon has arrived. Yes we bought the rain, again. Luckily, umbrellas are given out freely to anyone who needs one., trusting you will return it sometime. 

Luckily by the afternoon, the sun was back out.

Kyoto’s own Thunderbird-esq tower sits over the small modern hub of the city with high-rise shopping arcades, pachinko blocks and a multitude of traint-racks. Does each city have its own tower? I hope so.

We particularly liked the area around our hotel, next to the railway lines.

Kyoto was once the country capital, which Tokyo later became. Thanks to being spared by  the US Air Force bombing during World War II, Kyoto has a larger percentage of old housing stock than any other Japanese city. it has countless temples, shrines and other historically important structures, all in a relatively small area.

Once you leave the modern hub, it starts to feel like the equivalent of Hampstead, London - old money, really expensive boutique shops that don’t seem to need to open much, tiny restaurants and the introduction of a coffee culture. In pockets around the city It’s also geared up for tourism due to its abundance of cultural sights, 

In a country of quiet, reserved people, no noticeable wildlife noises and many rules we were rather shocked whilst at a shrine garden - a place for peace and meditation - the non-stop clicking of cameras, texting and chattering by the tourists was unreal, it certainly wasn’t like James Fox’s experience on BBC4 that’s for sure!

The gardens are incredible and it was wonderful to catch the late Autumn maple leaves and Sharron Fruit trees. I’m hoping the colours will still be in gardens of Kanazara. 

I’m fascinated by the The Kimono  it can be a stunning work of art. The patterns and colours are often mismatched so elegantly. The silk kimonos can be beautiful and worth a small fortune. You can buy them secondhand but they are very heavy and cumbersome despite their elegant look. The Obi belt in all its variations is very symbolic and when 9 meters or more is artistically wrapped, the mismatched pattern and clashes of colour against the kimono gives it its unique look. The whole ensemble comprises of many elements as i found out when I tried the informal Yukata  - cotton kimono and full Obi.

It comes as no surprise that the kimono is generally no longer worn on a daily basis by most Japanese, they are still proudly worn for special occasions such as weddings and coming of age ceremonies. Occasionally we stumbled across shops with contemporary kimonos. The formal obi’s hanging like works of art. Stunning hand painted or woven silks in contemporary designs with quirky little twists. 


In Kyoto some older monied locals still wear a kimono but less often with the formal wide obi. The cotton yukata robes, traditionally used for ryokans have now become accepted as informal outside wear with a simple sash. As its the onset of winter the sight of a beautiful bright kimono is a rare treat, but the winter sombre colours and outer jackets are equally beautiful. 

Kyoto has a number of Kimono hire shops where you can rent a kimono and all its accoutrements and ‘enjoy seeing the sites and take plenty of selfies’ it now tends to be the courting teenage boys and girls dressing up for the day.

The night brings a different atmosphere, but you’ll have to wait another day for that.