With a flourish of a broom dipped in black ink, Mokpo saw a flash of excitement. A demonstration against the government was being held by a single person. He taped a huge roll of paper on the seafront cycle path and wrote out a huge list - I think, of peoples names- all to the sound of opera music. An interesting final image of this relatively sleepy city.
A couple of hours on the train and we arrived in Jeonju, which means ‘perfect location’. This is our penultimate destination. Located in central South Korea, it is known for its cuisine and is home to the Bibimbap. I have eaten bibimbap in every location we have stayed in, so I think I can call myself an expert. The stakes are high.
Since the Joseon dynasty period, Jeonju is seen as a metropolis, but it did not experience industrialisation in the 20th century compared to other parts of Korea. It does not have the industrial infrastructure, manufacturing, or heavy industries found in other major Korean cities. Today, traditional tourism and sightseeing is a major industry in the city.
We are staying in the old Hanok Village. This large village gives a nice impression of how Korea might have looked like before the Japanese and (later) the North-Koreans destroyed everything. Beautifully reconstructed, but you can almost smell the fresh paint, which makes it more like an open-air museum.
Room with a view - Jeonju
Our stay here is in a traditional old Hanok, google translate called it ‘an assassins creed, built tall and sturdy’. I had begun to dread our three night stay here on the thin beds with tiny beanbag pillows, but luckily our wonderful host came up trumps when she offered us extra mattresses. Our new home was bijou but cosy. It was such a delight to stay in this little haven of loveliness.
Outside our gates, in the Hanok village, as beautiful as it is, for me it’s a bit like La La Land, a Hanbok theme park which drives you a bit nuts after a while. Bizarrely everything closes by 8.00pm including places to eat. The place is deserted by 8.30. We’ve noticed this throughout our trip, there is is little or no nightlife for the likes of us in South Korea.
Only traditional Korean food is allowed to be sold here including the newly adopted coffee, desert and cake combo. There are also an abundance of Hanbok hire shops and photographers to accompany you on your selfie walkabout. The Koreans love it!
Besides being the home of the Bimimbap - yes they are good, this is also the home of Hanji - I love hanji!!!
Hanji is Korean Paper, a finer form of Nepalese Lokta. Whilst in Andong we found a Hanji factory and we made our own paper, so to discover Jeonju was also home to Hanji it wasn’t long, we are talking minutes here, that I found a hanji factory - conveniently only one street away.
Freshly made, super thin Hanji paper
Heated table for drying each sheet of Hanji.
The finished hanji paper sheets, ready to go into the shop.
We also happened to be staying next-door to a Korean Hanji art specialist, who for 35 years had been creating Hanji craft for the presidents of South Korea and exhibiting her work all over the world. Within an hour of our arrival, with thanks to our host, we were sipping plum tea and being shown all her beautiful work, in her stunning home. At 83 years old, Hea Mi Ja Kim is full of life and energy. What a joy it was to meet her and her lovely dog.
Each item is decorated with multiple layers and tiny pieces of Hanji paper.
Our host tries on a ceremonial Hanji Hat.
Hea Mi Ja Kim’s studio.
Hea Mi Ja Kim’s dog is probably the only thing not made of hanji.
Once the hanbokers arrived in the village it was our cue to venture further afield to the Japanese area, junk shops and the local Market which was much more real and down to earth and great for people watching. I liked the new retro mobile home park that has recently opened on the outskirts.
We liked Jeonju, it’s very relaxing and friendly, made even better by our lovely host who spoilt us with her super healthy breakfasts. Jeonju was designated as a Slow City in 2010 ‘in recognition of its relaxed pace of life where traditional culture and nature blend harmoniously.’ It certainly is a place that seldomly gets out of first gear.
Farewell Jeonju, we are well rested ready for our final stay in Seoul.