We returned to Seoul for our last 5 days. The sun is out and all is well. We used this time to visit a huge tower with breathtaking views, a market for aging fashionistas, street-food hubs and the now non-existent nightlife of Itaewon.
Whilst visiting the rather lovely Insadong which has a village vibe to it, we wafted around art galleries, calligraphy brush stores and cafes. When out of the blue came an almighty roar. Deafening shouting through a loudspeaker shattered the peacefulness that we had become so accustomed to.
We thought it was an over zealous preacher in the nearby church. We went in search of this noisy rhetoric.
It wasn’t coming from the church, it was out on the main wide streets - a very, very loud political demonstration. I had to chase it down.
Thousands of people had taken to the streets, in a very organised way. Pro government on one side and anti government on the other side, each with mega phones. Blocks of police stationed as static walls, police marching in well rehearsed blocks as the demos moved to various locations. Noise everywhere.
Huge TV screens have been erected to transmit the various leaders speeches. The latest president, Yoon Suk Yeol has been in office for one year and apparently he’s not popular. One reason is his change to working hours from 42 to 69 hours per week, no overtime. These political demonstrations are quite a regular occurrence, calling for his resignation.
The veterans had their own protest area with chairs provided infront of a big TV screen.
Trump supporters independently appeared out of nowhere on their own mini walkabout.
The main protest was against the political allegiance being discussed between presidents from US, Japan and South Korea how they could defend their interests in the China seas.
Other protests related to North Korea were also happening, showing it is still a very tense border. People still die there.
As the protesters moved on to their next destination, some of the police headed back to their buses, we went for coffee. But not for long, within minutes people started charging around, reporters started appearing as did the police and so did I. Another protest had just broken out.
The Democratic Party of Korea were denouncing Japan's discharge of radioactive water from the Fukushima nuclear power plant into the ocean, a serious problem for the Korean fishermen’s livelihood.
The crowds gathered as a long roll of black plastic was unrolled like an oil slick over the pavement, then as if on cue everyone fell to the ground.
I have to say that was the most energetic and exciting day we have had, what a way to end our trip.
So it’s farewell to Seoul and South Korea. We had to work hard to find our places of interest, they don’t come handed on a plate. It was worth it though. Perhaps not set up for visitors as well as they imply and many things a tad oversold, but that’s all part of the experience. We saw and experienced things that we have never seen before and wouldn’t naturally be drawn to. I think we will look back with fondness at this trip and not forget the kindness and generosity that was shown to us throughout the places we visited.