Kyoto is a place where the night takes on a different atmosphere.
Old Kyoto has two very different sides to it. The monied Geisha Pink-light district of Pontocho and the other seedier red light district filtering into the main canal area both found in Gion.
Pontocho is made up of pretty lanes, almost too small for cars. It’s empty during the day despite being filled with tea houses, bars and restaurants that do not advertise to foreigners.
At night there are a number of taxis circling the area. It’s spotlessly maintained and manicured for the wealthy, whether you’re after a drink or a Geisha. This area feels like rich boys private playground.
‘No photographs’ posters are on each street corner where geisha businesses run. I don’t think this is just about warding tourists off from taking selfies with a geisha, but more for the protection of the suited men diving in and out of taxis in the dead of night.
Due to the decline in girls wishing to become Geishas the rules have changed. Once the tuition fees and accommodation has been paid off they are now, apparently, free to set up a business of their own. The decline in popularity of becoming a geisha has also, allegedly, led to the introduction of a 3 month fast-track course which will teach you the basics of how to act and how to dance. These young ladies can earn about 250,000 Yen per month.
Away from the affluence of Pontocho, the tourists, for a few 100 pounds, can be entertained and waited on by a Geisha. These ladies will either be the cheaper fast-tracked ladies or Maikos - Geisha apprentices.
A true Geisha is for Japanese men only and for huge sums of money. It’s a secretive world and in its demise still tries to keep the mystique around these dalliances that have happened for centuries.
Along the canal would be beautiful in the spring with the cherry blossom and Kiyamchi was once an elegant place to wander. Ladies would come to shop, pretending not to notice the red light alleyways.
Now many shops, restaurants and bars have succumbed to the overspill of the now public red light district. The touts now hang out on the main drag where the crowd is predominantly male, then escorts them to the various clubs and establishments in the back streets.
The lighting is different. Gone are the pink lanterns, now its harsh acrid florescent lights and cheap neon signs. A lot of still money changes hands here but the streets are grubby.
Some establishments are open 24 hours. Some offer alibis to wives, mothers and girlfriends. Others take reservations, address specific requests and have websites that list which girls are on duty and when. Most of the businesses are geared towards Japanese customers only. Foreigners are generally not welcome.