redlight district

'I found My Tokyo' - Travel Agency Slogan. Tokyo.

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The final chapter of an incredible journey.

We’d had enough of the noise, so we gave up the flat and moved into a hotel to finish off our trip in a bit more comfort.

We booked a hotel on-line, using the same sight we have booked all other hotels. It advertised ‘Superior Twin bed room (sleeps 3-4).’ Sounded ideal - spacious and quiet.

Turns out, when we arrived, the price quoted was for two beds, one person. With huge fees for additional people. How can this be allowed? The online booking company told us it was the hotel’s set of conditions and not their responsibility for misrepresentation of facts. They would not let us raise this issue as a warning to others on their media forum. It was banned. 

So, bed 21 brings us to our final couple of experiences and these both took place late at night.

So it seems to me that Japan’s life is about art and culture, anime paradise, crazy technology and a very large sex industry.  Kabukichō is the location of many host and hostess clubs, love hotels, shops, restaurants, and nightclubs, and is often called the ‘Sleepless Town’. This red light district is not quite as explicit as other cities in Japan, but it comprises of many, many hotels advertising stay, rest, or sleep.

The adult entertainment is hidden behind closed doors, with only a few touts hanging around outside. The red light area  has been absorbed into the vastness of Shinjuku - the most central entertainment area in the metropolis of Tokyo. Tourists are encouraged and generally get ripped off with almighty final bills. Not quite as obvious to see are the many places that remain for Japanese only. Foreigners are not welcome.

What has recently emerged are young male Japanese escorts and clubs for females to enjoy their company. The derogatory imaging has become more anime in style.

It still bewilders me that a society that appears so shy, conservative and introverted has such a huge countrywide sex industry, with so many loop-holes to avoid the illegalities.

Kabukicho is apparently crowded with members of the Yakuza, the Japanese mafia. Yakuza members run a large amount of the bars and clubs here. This is why, for the first time in Japan, I have seen policemen patrolling this area. The Yakuza have a scary reputation and tourists are warned not to cause any trouble.

Time for one last adventure and this took place in Kawasaki…

Keihin Industrial Ward is a futuristic landscape. We attempted to make our own way there so we could roam around the eerie never-ending maze of factories belching out fire and smoke 24 hours a day. Unfortunately this wasn’t to be. We found the correct train routes, but they were closed due to an accident. Everywhere was gridlocked and the trains were terminated. We weren’t going to give up and took the next best option - a freezing Japanese boat tour. We could only take the late night one, so not great for photography and we were unable to land anywhere. We have no idea what information was given to the few brave passengers as there were no translations. The views were staggering. Straight-out of Final Fantasy.  

This heavy industry concentrated in the Kawasaki-Yokohama harbour area, includes steel mills, oil refineries, petrochemical complexes, and shipyards. Major land-reclamation projects in the bay have created room for the industrial expansion.

There are massive questions on its environmental pollution.

So that is it. Three months travelling complete. Back to England - a little wiser, more knowledgeable and a great deal to think about.

'Strong realisation fur is real' - Headline - Front cover Hair Magazine. Google Translate.

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Kyoto is a place where the night takes on a different atmosphere.

Old Kyoto has two very different sides to it. The monied Geisha Pink-light district of Pontocho and the other seedier red light district filtering into the main canal area both found in Gion. 

Pontocho is made up of pretty lanes, almost too small for cars. It’s empty during the day despite being filled with tea houses, bars and restaurants that do not advertise to foreigners. 

At night there are a number of taxis circling the area. It’s spotlessly maintained and manicured for the wealthy, whether you’re after a  drink or a Geisha. This area feels like rich boys private playground.  

‘No photographs’ posters are on each street corner where geisha businesses run. I don’t think this is just about warding tourists off from taking selfies with a geisha, but more for the protection of the suited men diving in and out of taxis in the dead of night.

Due to the decline in girls wishing to become Geishas the rules have changed. Once the tuition fees and accommodation has been paid off they are now, apparently, free to set up a business of their own. The decline in popularity of becoming a geisha has also, allegedly, led to the introduction of a 3 month fast-track course which will teach you the basics of how to act and how to dance. These young ladies can earn about 250,000 Yen per month. 

Away from the affluence of Pontocho, the tourists, for a few 100 pounds, can be entertained and waited on by a Geisha. These ladies will either be the cheaper fast-tracked ladies or Maikos - Geisha apprentices.

A true Geisha is for Japanese men only and for huge sums of money. It’s a secretive world and in its demise still tries to keep the mystique around these dalliances that have happened for centuries. 

Along the canal would be beautiful in the spring with the cherry blossom and Kiyamchi was once an elegant place to wander. Ladies would come to shop, pretending not to notice the red light alleyways. 

Now many shops, restaurants and bars have succumbed to the overspill of the now public red light district. The touts now hang out on the main drag where the crowd is predominantly male, then escorts them to the various clubs and establishments in the back streets.

The lighting is different. Gone are the pink lanterns, now its harsh acrid florescent lights and cheap neon signs. A lot of still money changes hands here but the streets are grubby.

Some establishments are open 24 hours. Some offer alibis to wives, mothers and girlfriends. Others take reservations, address specific requests and have websites that list which girls are on duty and when. Most of the businesses are geared towards Japanese customers only. Foreigners are generally not welcome.