After a Full Belly, All is Poetry - Slogan stitched on fabric handbag, Varanasi Market.

February 15, 2023

From what I can see, Varanasi appears a little cleaner and tidier. The more populated ghats now have bins. They are empty, but it’s a positive move nevertheless.

There are less sacred cows wandering around the alleys. I miss the cows and their noon chapati snack-time. Less cows are on the main roads which obviously helps the flow of traffic and is safer for all involved. Apparently they have been rounded up and many are kept in cow shelters.

Unfortunately the domestic cows used for milk remain tethered on a short rope unable to do anything. A static, sad life for them. There seems to be many more dogs, goats and chickens wandering around, probably enjoying the chapati offerings.

A large tented area has been erected at Dashashwamedh Ghat for the homeless to have a bed for the night - this must be very welcomed.

The new pedestrianised area next to burning ghats is a very smart, clean walkway leading from the ghats up to the Golden Temple. It blends in well with its historical neighbours. It is still has a heavy police presence.

The light in Varanasi is beautiful. Together with its faded grandeur and the abundance of Indian fabrics makes for a very beautiful palette. A palette I hope to bring into my future artwork back home.

The colour orange burns especially bright in Varanasi. It shines in the marigold garlands on the dashboards of every taxi and the robes of the sadhus – the Hindu holy men.

Saffron is the most sacred colour in the Hindu religion. It signifies fire and the burning away of impurities. Sadhus can be found on the banks of the Ganges, in alleys and in public squares. Their long white beards and brightly coloured tunics, sometimes orange, sometimes bright red, make them look so photogenic, but a picture could cost you.

The city has a huge number of sadhus. Men who have given up their regular lives, homes, relationships, material goods and chosen a life of detached poverty relying only on what people offer them. Those that carry a stick are in the final quarter of their lives and have devoted it entirely to their religion. This will be their final resting place.

Varanasi, is considered to be the holiest of the seven sacred cities in the religions of Hinduism and Jainism. Hindus believe that dying in the city will bring eternal salvation and an end to the cycle of rebirth. Pilgrims come from all over to seek purification in the sacred waters. They come to cremate their kin and to spend their final days in peace

You regularly see heads being shaved along the ghats. Within the Hindu religion, ceremonial haircuts are very symbolic, occurring during certain life events. The first is a child’s first haircut, the second is during worship and pilgrimages to special temples, and the third being the haircut during the mourning of a loved one.

A child’s first haircut, which is known as a chudakarna, ideally happens when a child is 1or 3 years old. The child’s hair is fully shaved off, or a sheikh is maintained by some Hindus - a small patch is left untouched that creates a lock of hair which is left to protect the brain, as well as the area where the soul is believed to leave the body after death.

The act of tonsuring is when hair is cut for religious purposes. Tonsuring is prevalent in the temples of Varanasi. It’s an important custom in Hinduism, as the ritual of shaving one’s head allows you to be closer to God,

The final ceremonial haircut takes place when a family member dies. The Mundan is observed by the wife of the deceased, and the eldest son or male relative who is to perform the last rites. The wife is expected to keep her head permanently shaved from now on, as a symbol of her widowhood, while the male family member is to remain shaven during the mourning period only. It is seen as a symbol of grief and a mark of respect for the departed soul.

Varanasi is a cacophony of people and atmospheric activity ebbing and flowing through the course of a day.

Preachers teaching young priests in-the-making, beggars begging, sons performing last rites, braying loudspeakers, ceremonial bathers, chanting, overheated flaming pyres, black kites circling over head, bells chiming, dogs barking… all swathed in amber hues.

Every Supermodels Favourite Ramp - Indigo Airlines aeroplane ramp. Gwalior Airport.

February 13, 2023

From Gwalior military airport, on a flight lasting no longer than it takes to eat the complimentary pot noodle we landed in Varanasi.

Our last experience flying here had left a permanent scar, so it was an almighty relief that we encountered no issues and arrived as scheduled to the same place we resided last time - Panchkote Ghat. We returned because we never saw the Ghats, they were completely submerged. Three years ago the late monsoon suddenly hit. We left with the water up to our waists, balanced on our luggage, on a rickshaw being pushed by Ranjeet and friends through the waist deep water.

This time it’s warm and dry, perfect for us to explore life on the Ghats.

Situated on the banks are the ghats, the stairs going down to a river, which create the character of Varanasi. The ghats span the length of the entire bank and you can walk along the river by weaving up and down the steps. The stairs themselves slide into the water at the bottom, with the last visible step determined by the water levels of Ganges. At several points on the ghats are large landings where much of the activity takes place.

From families gathering, picnicking, taking selfies, sleeping to bathing, praying, learning, burning and boat building it all happens here from dawn until dusk.

One of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. Known by three names: Varanasi - the official more recent name deriving from two Ganges tributaries forming the city's borders - Varuna and Assi. Secondly, Banaras - the old name and finally, Kashi - the ancient name found in the primary Hindu texts meaning “to shine” and shine it certainly does.

By late afternoon some ghats start to fill up in readiness for the evening ahead. Snacks, Chai, sweets, candles and flowers are readily available.

We took a boat as dusk began to settle. It was beautiful to see Varanasi from the water.

We travelled along many of the ghats finally reaching Manikarnika Ghat the biggest of the burning ghats. Between here and Harishchandra, the smaller burning ghat there are about 80 cremations a day each costing 4000 rupees. In covid a cremation cost 6000 Rps due to the risk to the people who work here at the burning ghats.

HARISHCHANDRA - smaller burning ghat 80 cremations a day. cost 4000 rupees. In covid it cost 6000 due to the risk of the people working at the ghat.

The new spires, gleaming in the evening light, indicate the modern sleek new walkway completed during Lockdown leading up to the Golden Temple. Three years ago it was just a pile of mud, with many newly discovered temples randomly sticking up out of the ground.

As darkness fell, we moored up at Dasashwamedh Ghat to witness the evening Ganga Arti. This happens every evening, every day of the week. It was held on the roof tops when we were last here so it was exciting to the Arti in all its glory.

Approximately 20,000 people gathered. It was quite a spectacle to see the boats of all sizes pushing and shunting to get their space. Afterwards it was quite a spectacle to see everyone trying to leave. 20,000 people is a lot to battle through.

Of course an easier option is to stop and have a bite to eat.

No Bag No Homework - School Notice. Jaipur

February 03, 2023

The Jantar Mantar is an astronomical observatory in Jaipur, built in the early 18th century. It includes an impressive set of twenty main instruments featuring the largest sundials in the world, created predominantly from stone. Designed for the observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye, they embody several architectural and instrumental innovations.

Each instrument has a specific function for astronomical measurements. As the sun shines on the giant sundials it’s possible to read the time from the scales. A set of smaller stone instruments each represent the signs of the zodiac.

Some instruments were used to plot how the latitude changes over the course of a year. Each day was plotted but the shadow and read from the grid.

The Jantar Mantar was the vision of a scholarly prince showcasing his knowledge of astronomy and views on cosmology, at the end of the Mughal period.

The observatory became a meeting point for different scientific cultures and gave rise to widespread social practices linked to cosmology. It was also a symbol of royal authority, through its shear scale, it’s control of time, and its astrological forecasting capacities.

You Are Welcome in the School of Joy - School Sign. Jaipur.

January 31, 2023

A little apprehensive that Jaipur was going to be a tourist trap, be as that may, post covid it has been hit very hard. The huge bus-parks that roll in the tourists stand empty. Numbers are down, there is an air of desperation when we step off the train.

Jaipur is Rajasthan’s pink city - the ruling Maharaja had the whole city painted salmon pink -symbolising hospitality. It has been meticulously planned following a grid system where every element, even the road widths are based apparently on the number 9. All signage on the shop fronts is identical Hindi font. It is a very uniform, low-rise city.

The air quality is poor. Probably from the multitude of motorbikes and from cooking on wood.

We hooked up with Kumar, a local guide to help us get to grips with this huge place. We spent the whole day drifting around the old city tasting street foods and meeting artists and makers. As always I really enjoyed scraping beneath the surface and discovering some of the hidden gems.

We met a father and son who handmade bronze pots. Unfortunately the son will be the end of this family tradition. There’s no money to be made from this anymore due to the availability of cheaper machine-made steel pots - just as functional but not as beautiful.

We went down Bell Puri Alley - every shop sells the Puri on an industrial scale.

This is the local court, for the residents to settle their own disputes instead of going to a formal court. Each side picks 2 people for a Jury and the public the final one.

A local screen-printer who prints the Temple prayer books

Being a paper obsessive, I couldn’t help but notice piles of printed ledger paper in a doorway. I just had to see more, it was a bit of a squeeze …

The Marble section of the city is easily recognisable. It’s engulfed in a cloud of white dust so thick you need a mask. Each carver learns to carve a particular God. They carve that same God for the whole of their career.

The lime and chilli’s hang outside every business to ward off ill-feelings from their neighbours. They are replaced every week.

The dried leaves hanging across the shops are the remains of Diwali celebrations.

Jaipur is also famous for its jewellery and semi precious stones.

Towards the end of the day we met a local potter (the Master) and his family. We climbed up to the roof tops to fly kites with the children. There are hundreds of kites everywhere in Jaipur, in the sky, in the trees and in the streets. The boys and men fight them. We lost.

Our final stop of the day was this street food vendor. Fried potato fritter mashed in a chickpea curry. Topped with mint sauce and tamarind. Oh my goodness, no wonder there is always a big crowd around this place. A little bit of heaven in a bowl.

We found Jaipur to be a friendly and fun place to explore.

Do Not Spit Here and There - Lodhi Garden sign. New Delhi.

January 23, 2023

Two things I’m particularly drawn to in India are tuk-tuks and signage. I do love a tuk-tuk drive, except that is when you have a young hot-headed road racer with a turbo charged tuk-tuk hurtling across the Delhi roads. One white knuckle ride is probably enough. We soon realised that an older driver is a wiser driver and a lot slower. This gentleman seemed quite bemused that we adopted him as Mr Tuk-Tuk. He didn’t know the way to many places, but that was unimportant.

A visit to the beautiful Lodhi Gardens proved to be both relaxing and very informative.

Finally we found the Indo-Islamic style tombs and the garden. Apart from history and beauty, Lodhi Garden is a fitness hotspot.

I’m not surprised that everyone, including the dogs, needed a rest. This really is a bit of an oasis in an otherwise noisy, crowded, dusty city.

A walk round a lovely lake and a bit more reading to finish off.

Lodhi Estate Security

No shop yet, but a very sparkly new sign. Luckily our local shops have everything we need.

'I found My Tokyo' - Travel Agency Slogan. Tokyo.

December 15, 2019 in Photographic Travelogue

The final chapter of an incredible journey.

We’d had enough of the noise, so we gave up the flat and moved into a hotel to finish off our trip in a bit more comfort.

We booked a hotel on-line, using the same sight we have booked all other hotels. It advertised ‘Superior Twin bed room (sleeps 3-4).’ Sounded ideal - spacious and quiet.

Turns out, when we arrived, the price quoted was for two beds, one person. With huge fees for additional people. How can this be allowed? The online booking company told us it was the hotel’s set of conditions and not their responsibility for misrepresentation of facts. They would not let us raise this issue as a warning to others on their media forum. It was banned.

So, bed 21 brings us to our final couple of experiences and these both took place late at night.

So it seems to me that Japan’s life is about art and culture, anime paradise, crazy technology and a very large sex industry. Kabukichō is the location of many host and hostess clubs, love hotels, shops, restaurants, and nightclubs, and is often called the ‘Sleepless Town’. This red light district is not quite as explicit as other cities in Japan, but it comprises of many, many hotels advertising stay, rest, or sleep.

The adult entertainment is hidden behind closed doors, with only a few touts hanging around outside. The red light area has been absorbed into the vastness of Shinjuku - the most central entertainment area in the metropolis of Tokyo. Tourists are encouraged and generally get ripped off with almighty final bills. Not quite as obvious to see are the many places that remain for Japanese only. Foreigners are not welcome.

What has recently emerged are young male Japanese escorts and clubs for females to enjoy their company. The derogatory imaging has become more anime in style.

It still bewilders me that a society that appears so shy, conservative and introverted has such a huge countrywide sex industry, with so many loop-holes to avoid the illegalities.

Kabukicho is apparently crowded with members of the Yakuza, the Japanese mafia. Yakuza members run a large amount of the bars and clubs here. This is why, for the first time in Japan, I have seen policemen patrolling this area. The Yakuza have a scary reputation and tourists are warned not to cause any trouble.

Time for one last adventure and this took place in Kawasaki…

Keihin Industrial Ward is a futuristic landscape. We attempted to make our own way there so we could roam around the eerie never-ending maze of factories belching out fire and smoke 24 hours a day. Unfortunately this wasn’t to be. We found the correct train routes, but they were closed due to an accident. Everywhere was gridlocked and the trains were terminated. We weren’t going to give up and took the next best option - a freezing Japanese boat tour. We could only take the late night one, so not great for photography and we were unable to land anywhere. We have no idea what information was given to the few brave passengers as there were no translations. The views were staggering. Straight-out of Final Fantasy.

This heavy industry concentrated in the Kawasaki-Yokohama harbour area, includes steel mills, oil refineries, petrochemical complexes, and shipyards. Major land-reclamation projects in the bay have created room for the industrial expansion.

There are massive questions on its environmental pollution.

So that is it. Three months travelling complete. Back to England - a little wiser, more knowledgeable and a great deal to think about.

'We want visitors to get lost rather than follow the order'. - Quote - Toshiyuki Inoko. Founder of Teamlab.

December 12, 2019 in Photographic Travelogue

Good Morning Tokyo, our final destination.

After a wild goose chase We rocked up at our 20th and final bed of the trip only to find we couldn’t get in. Thanks to nimble hands and a pen we managed to retrieve the keys from a locked box. Our traditional Japanese one roomed flat had a certain 70s feel so we knew it was past its sell by date, but it was fine. Until that is the people upstairs came home in the evening. Then the thin walls reverberated every word and footstep around us, then 8.00am every morning the scaffolding company over the road loaded their trucks. Funny how some things are never mentioned in reviews. The location was great and nothing was too difficult to get to.

Here in Tokyo, I began to feel as though we weren’t in Japan anymore. It was the same, but different. Same city mind-set but without the historical beauty or skyscraper magnitude like London and New York. Tokyo is vast, impersonal and digitally noisy but humanly quiet.

We must have only scratched the surface in our week here, but slowly we dug and discovered there was more.

The cleanliness is there, as is the order but it’s a little less rigid. The Christmas lights added a warmth to the neon overload. Everything is bigger here: the shops, crowds, stations and the crossings. We saw some bizarre labelled fashion, but we thought there may be more extremes and creative looks but we didn’t see much evidence of this, its surprisingly bland and predictable, I guess thats globalisation for you.

It appears to be the latest trend to wear matching outfits.

The Cosplayers add an alternative look to the branded market.

The ride out to Palette City, near Tokyo Bay was spectacular both in daylight and night-time. The views were amazing as you looked back at the city. Then we discovered Teamlab…

The new Mori Building Digital Art Museum: TeamLab Borderless, sounds a bit dull and a bit of a mouthful, fortunately its a concept that belies its name. The world’s first digital museum of this scope and massive scale. 10,000 square feet of it. A totally immersive and interactive experience created by TeamLab, a fast-growing Tokyo collective of so-called “ultra technologists”.

Home to about 50 artworks loosely divided into five areas, orchestrated by a network of 520 computers and 470 high-tech projectors.

Like many elements in Japan, their Art museums are bound by rules, but this place is a change from the norm. Here there are no borders, the art moves with you, as you wander aimlessly soaking in the mesmerising fluid displays in forests, seas, fields of flowers and much, much more. Within all the technology it remains tethered to reality, whether its the change of seasons or when you touch a fluttering butterfly, it promptly dies.

Teamlab say the “borderless” concept is what the real world is like. they want visitors to get lost rather than follow the order.”

The slow shutter speed made the hares appear exoskeletal as they jumped down the corridor with you.

Apart from William Kentridge’s - 'More Sweetly Play The Dance’, this was a breathtaking experiences. Links to Japan’s nature, art and culture are evident in most areas and makes the experience even more unique. The term ‘Museum’ is perhaps a misnomer. this is a digital installation and a very fine one at that.