ganges

Every Supermodels Favourite Ramp - Indigo Airlines aeroplane ramp. Gwalior Airport.

From Gwalior military airport, on a flight lasting no longer than it takes to eat the complimentary pot noodle we landed in Varanasi.

Our last experience flying here had left a permanent scar, so it was an almighty relief that we encountered no issues and arrived as scheduled to the same place we resided last time -  Panchkote Ghat. We returned because we never saw the Ghats, they were completely submerged. Three years ago the late monsoon suddenly hit. We left with the water up to our waists, balanced on our luggage, on a rickshaw being pushed by Ranjeet and friends through the waist deep water.

This time it’s warm and dry, perfect for us to explore life on the Ghats.

Situated on the banks are the ghats, the stairs going down to a river, which create the character of Varanasi. The ghats span the length of the entire bank and you can walk along the river by weaving up and down the steps. The stairs themselves slide into the water at the bottom, with the last visible step determined by the water levels of Ganges. At several points on the ghats are large landings where much of the activity takes place.

From families gathering, picnicking, taking selfies, sleeping to bathing, praying, learning, burning and boat building it all happens here from dawn until dusk.

One of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. Known by three names: Varanasi - the official more recent name deriving from two Ganges tributaries forming the city's borders - Varuna and Assi. Secondly, Banaras - the old name and finally, Kashi - the ancient name found in the primary Hindu texts meaning “to shine” and shine it certainly does.

By late afternoon some ghats start to fill up in readiness for the evening ahead. Snacks, Chai, sweets, candles and flowers are readily available.

We took a boat as dusk began to settle. It was beautiful to see Varanasi from the water.

We travelled along many of the ghats finally reaching Manikarnika Ghat the biggest of the burning ghats. Between here and Harishchandra, the smaller burning ghat there are about 80 cremations a day each costing 4000 rupees. In covid a cremation cost 6000 Rps due to the risk to the people who work here at the burning ghats.

The new spires, gleaming in the evening light, indicate the modern sleek new walkway completed during Lockdown leading up to the Golden Temple. Three years ago it was just a pile of mud, with many newly discovered temples randomly sticking up out of the ground.

As darkness fell, we moored up at Dasashwamedh Ghat to witness the evening Ganga Arti. This happens every evening, every day of the week. It was held on the roof tops when we were last here so it was exciting to the Arti in all its glory.

Approximately 20,000 people gathered. It was quite a spectacle to see the boats of all sizes pushing and shunting to get their space. Afterwards it was quite a spectacle to see everyone trying to leave. 20,000 people is a lot to battle through.

Of course an easier option is to stop and have a bite to eat.

'Burning is Learning. Cremation is Education'. - Touts tag-line.

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The north part of Varanasi Town has a completely different feel to the holier south: narrower lanes, more businesses, markets and a great deal more noisy traffic. It is here the mighty Golden Temple is situated. However, It had just been decided that people are no longer allowed inside the Temple, but the officials will still take your money and let you know after that you can go no further, but still get your blessing, without going into the shrine. Something’s not quite right there.

We then found that from the Golden Temple all the way down to the River Ganges the ancient houses have been demolished revealing  over 160 temples and shrines that haven’t been seen for centuries. This ambitious plan to pedestrianise this area may well help to regenerate it and save it in the long run, similar to the building plans in Old Delhi high street. Only time will tell, it would be a sight to behold.

Revealed - a tiny pink temple that had been hidden for hundreds and hundreds of years.

View down to the Ganges.

During our stay, It also happened to be the Festival of Ancestors, where people remember those who have passed on. Down by the Ghats, mostly underwater at this moment in time, men shave their heads and faces, bathe in the Ganges,  and offer food to the sacred cows, in remembrance and respect to their deceased family.

There are two burning Ghats here in Varanasi - Manikarnika Ghat (major) and the less intimidating Harish Chandra Ghat (minor). It was the minor one that we were scammed with the ‘Burning is Learning. Cremation Education’ scam. It was all there in the guide book, we had failed to read it! 

A view of Manikarnika Ghat.

We were convinced by a guy that he was a Holy Undertaker, who insisted we went to his house and learn about the burning ceremony. He wanted no money, just our time to be educated and gain a deeper understanding of the Hindu ceremony. We were taken through the smoke filled houses, up the smoke filled steps and alleys and found ourselves on the roof overlooking the burning ghat. It was like nothing we had seen before and yes it was interesting and we saw a great deal. BUT this guy was no holy man, nor was he an undertaker. Money was his sole purpose and these people can get pretty forceful about it. We beat a hasty retreat.

During our visits to town we constantly heard the ringing of bells,  announcing the procession of a group of male mourners shuffling by carrying a body covered in garlands of flowers on a bamboo stretcher and chanting to their God to accept the deceased on its journey to Nirvana. The frequency was strange, glimpses of bright orange material sweeping past…

The Burning Ghats don’t stop, they burn 24hours a day.